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Ace of Spades, Armand de Brignac, Brut

Albert Morot, Beaune Bressandres

2005 Angelus

Truly great stuff, this wine performed at a three-digit level both in the horizontal tasting of 2005s in Baltimore, as well as in Montreal at this mini-vertical. This sensational, opaque, bluish/purple wine offers up notes of vanillin, spring flowers, blueberry and blackberry liqueur, plus a touch of liquorice. The wine hits the palate with a thunderous cascade of ripe, rich, concentrated fruit. It is full-bodied, multidimensional and layered. The tannins are beautifully integrated but still present, and the wood, acidity, alcohol, etc., are all beautifully assimilated in this magnificent, majestic vintage of Angelus. It can be drunk now, but it is still an adolescent and that suggests it has at least another 25-35 years of longevity.

2011 Angludet

Another sleeper of the vintage from Angludet, the 2011 exhibits a dark ruby/purple color as well as a sweet bouquet of licorice, spring flowers, black currants and cherries. With medium body, silky tannins, surprising stuffing and succulence, this seductive, lush, well-endowed Angludet can be enjoyed over the next decade.

Angludet

2007 Apparita, Castello Di Ama

The 2007 L???Apparita (Merlot) is another outstanding wine, but it is the least interesting of the estate???s high-end 2007s. The warm growing season doesn???t appear to have been as kind to the Merlot as it was to the other grapes grown on the property. Super ripe dark fruit, sweet French oak and chocolate emerge from this supple, round Apparita, with just enough minerality on the finish to provide a measure of balance. The wine???s persistence and length are first rate but a slight overripe quality lingers. The Merlot grown in these high-altitude vineyards has a way of developing immense nobility with bottle age, so it will be fascinating to see what happens here.

2010 Apparita, Castello Di Ama

The 2010 L???Apparita is a pure expression of Merlot with bold fruit nuances of cherry and black fruit at the core. This vintage is especially sophisticated and fine: Evidently those cooling diurnal shifts during the growing season have contributed to the overall elegance and prestige of this beautiful varietal wine. It promises a slow and steady evolution over the next ten years.

2009 Apparita, Castello Di Ama

Stunning as usual, the 2009 L???Apparita (100% Merlot) starts off slow but builds steady momentum and intensity. This is a seamless and beautifully integrated expression that sees fine contrast between acidity, structure and fruity extract. The wine is still tight, so give it time to complete its bottle evolution.

2008 Apparita, Castello Di Ama

The 2008 L'Apparita (Merlot) is very, very beautiful. This is a gorgeous vintage for the Apparita. Sweet dark cherries, chocolate, mint, licorice and spices are some of the many notes that emerge from the glass. The 2008 possesses striking inner perfume and sweetness. The 2008 is a decidedly mid-weight vintage, but it works. Graceful and elegant through to the long finish, the 2008 Apparita is a wine that convinces for its balance and overall sense of harmony. This bottle is far better than the two examples I tasted last year.

Arnauld